confused by patchouli

[kindkit]

I hate patchouli. Except, apparently, when I love it.

Much of my experience with patchouli comes from encountering people drenched in it, and in those circumstances it literally makes me queasy. So, as I explore perfumes, I thought that hating patchouli gave me a guideline.

However, some years back I had a sample of BPAL's Mary Read, which is sea salt and "ocean" and rum and a pretty significant dose of patchouli. I liked it, but I thought I liked it despite the patchouli.

Recently I got a new sample, and now I love it, and what's more, I'm pretty sure I love it because of the patchouli. And yet the patchouli-soaked hippies I deal with at work still make me gag. I'm baffled!

So what's the difference between the nice patchouli and the rank stuff? Is it the quality of the patchouli itself? The amount (but I put on quite a bit of Mary Read and still loved it)? Is it the fact that Mary Read is made with aged patchouli?

I googled around a bit looking for articles but didn't find much. I did see the post at Kafkaesque with recs for patchouli scents she recommends, but it seemed written more for enthusiasts than skeptics. Can anybody point me towards some info? And I'd also welcome recs for perfumes with a patcholi presence but where the patchouli is smooth, gentle, not dirty.

Thanks!

Comments

[rydra_wong]

Givenchy Gentleman (the 1974 version) is the tastiest patchouli-vetiver-leather. Very 1970s macho but in a good way (IMHO). Has to be applied in very careful quantities or it could kill someone with the sillage.

The patchouli isn't gentle, but it's sitting in a leather armchair or a vintage car and very definitely not a hippie, if that makes sense.

Just writing about it made me have to go and put some on.

Confusingly, there's a 2018 Givenchy scent with the same name but the 1974 scent has not been discontinued and is still available.

[devon]

the 74 version sounds awesome. I have a carded sample of a flanker of the new one - Givenchy Gentleman EDP Boisée. It's pretty nice, but it's very different from the original. Mostly iris, woods, sandalwood, touch of cocoa. I discovered last year that I love iris.

[rydra_wong]

Getting off-topic from patchouli:

I discovered last year that I love iris.

Commended to your attention, if you like iris with a bit of cocoa:

https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Dior/Dior-Homme-13015.html

[rydra_wong]

P.S. kindkit, not sure this would fit your requirements as it's definitely not gentle, but OTOH it's one of those ones that's worth smelling just out of curiosity and historical interest, as an iconic masculine.

[kindkit]

I'm trying not to be too persnickety about what I'm willing to test, and it does sound interesting!