confused by patchouli

[kindkit]

I hate patchouli. Except, apparently, when I love it.

Much of my experience with patchouli comes from encountering people drenched in it, and in those circumstances it literally makes me queasy. So, as I explore perfumes, I thought that hating patchouli gave me a guideline.

However, some years back I had a sample of BPAL's Mary Read, which is sea salt and "ocean" and rum and a pretty significant dose of patchouli. I liked it, but I thought I liked it despite the patchouli.

Recently I got a new sample, and now I love it, and what's more, I'm pretty sure I love it because of the patchouli. And yet the patchouli-soaked hippies I deal with at work still make me gag. I'm baffled!

So what's the difference between the nice patchouli and the rank stuff? Is it the quality of the patchouli itself? The amount (but I put on quite a bit of Mary Read and still loved it)? Is it the fact that Mary Read is made with aged patchouli?

I googled around a bit looking for articles but didn't find much. I did see the post at Kafkaesque with recs for patchouli scents she recommends, but it seemed written more for enthusiasts than skeptics. Can anybody point me towards some info? And I'd also welcome recs for perfumes with a patcholi presence but where the patchouli is smooth, gentle, not dirty.

Thanks!

Comments

[white_aster]

I have noticed the same, that there are a lot of different things that people popularly label "patchouli". Some of the "hippie" patchoulis and patchouli perfumes (not essential oils) I think just have more things in them than just patchouli, but that people often don't/can't identify what's the patchouli and what's the "other stuff". Some smell more incensey to me, some more soft and powdery, and I think it's just because the patchouli in them is like eggs in cake: yeah, all cakes have eggs, but they're all different due to what else is in them (and you'd not point to a cake as an example of an egg...this metaphor might not be the best, but I think you get my point.)

I do imagine that there are different grades, types, species, and preparations of even pure patchouli oil. Different varieties of the plant, where they're grown, how they're distilled, etc. This page seems to have a nice video that describes how Indonesian patchouli oil has varied types/grades, and they do say they smell different, and how the industry eventually shifted to use the cheaper versions. All I could suggest is that you try to find some reputable places that will sell you isolated samples of JUST different types of patchouli oil (rather than patchouli FRAGRANCE oils which are generally just stuff made to 'smell like' patchouli), so you can give them a sniff. Just be careful, though, as some essential oils are very concentrated and can cause some skin reactions undiluted (and I can't remember if patchouli is one of them).

[devon]

I was following reddit fragrance subs until the boycott, but it's still a good source for searches. Here's one interesting thread:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/comments/t5ijaw/what_does_patchouli_smell_like_to_you/

with a lot of people who strongly dislike it, but a few good comments about different types of smells it can have.

I also thought I hated it, but I think the prime offenders are people who use "pure" patchouli oil instead of bathing. (I live in a traditionally hippie university town.) Spoiler: it does not mix well with BO, nor does it cover it. It can smell earthy but clean, especially as a supporting note.

https://www.reddit.com/r/fragrance/comments/k4e6lk/best_patchouli_fragrance/
this is all recs, but mostly for fragrances that feature patchouli as the focus. It's not a bad place to start.

If you want to go farther, this is the search I used:
"site:reddit.com patchouli varieties"
and you can change out "varieties" to "recommendations" for specific scents.

[rydra_wong]

The amount (but I put on quite a bit of Mary Read and still loved it)?

Could be to do with how it's blended in with other notes (and what notes), versus smelling like you just dumped too much patchouli essential oil on yourself?

And I'd also welcome recs for perfumes with a patcholi presence but where the patchouli is smooth, gentle, not dirty.

A lot of people rate L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme very highly (it's been ages since I smelled it so I can't comment directly). Though it may depend how you feel about cocoa and anise.

https://akafkaesquelife.wordpress.com/2013/12/01/guerlain-linstant-de-guerlain-pour-homme-linstant-eau-extreme/

It has many versions but the EDP is still in production, I believe:

https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Guerlain/L-Instant-de-Guerlain-pour-Homme-EDP-44763.html

[devon]

for BPAL, this site has great reviews of perfumes you might be considering, and there's also an entire forum for recommendations. I think you get faster search results if you make an account and login, but you can read all that stuff without doing it.

https://www.bpal.org/

https://www.bpal.org/topic/1838-bpal-patchouli-theres-nothing-else-like-it/

[chestnut_pod]

An interesting and worthwhile question! I'm afraid that I am a dedicated patchouli-hater, and so don't have an opinion on its fine gradations. I do, however, have a fun book recommendation that includes notes on patchouli: Scent: A Natural History of Fragrance, by Elise Vernon Pearlstine.

[ravengown]

I am definitely someone who used to think I hated patchouli. I've been looking for more of it lately, but one I really like that should be obtainable and is very gentle is Blood Cedar from Firebird (they sample and their turnaround is pretty good). The owner said that they didn't really like patchouli much, and sort of wanted to make something with that component that they enjoyed. It's blood orange and patchouli I think- but not stinky.