confused by patchouli

[kindkit]

I hate patchouli. Except, apparently, when I love it.

Much of my experience with patchouli comes from encountering people drenched in it, and in those circumstances it literally makes me queasy. So, as I explore perfumes, I thought that hating patchouli gave me a guideline.

However, some years back I had a sample of BPAL's Mary Read, which is sea salt and "ocean" and rum and a pretty significant dose of patchouli. I liked it, but I thought I liked it despite the patchouli.

Recently I got a new sample, and now I love it, and what's more, I'm pretty sure I love it because of the patchouli. And yet the patchouli-soaked hippies I deal with at work still make me gag. I'm baffled!

So what's the difference between the nice patchouli and the rank stuff? Is it the quality of the patchouli itself? The amount (but I put on quite a bit of Mary Read and still loved it)? Is it the fact that Mary Read is made with aged patchouli?

I googled around a bit looking for articles but didn't find much. I did see the post at Kafkaesque with recs for patchouli scents she recommends, but it seemed written more for enthusiasts than skeptics. Can anybody point me towards some info? And I'd also welcome recs for perfumes with a patcholi presence but where the patchouli is smooth, gentle, not dirty.

Thanks!

Comments

[rydra_wong]

The amount (but I put on quite a bit of Mary Read and still loved it)?

Could be to do with how it's blended in with other notes (and what notes), versus smelling like you just dumped too much patchouli essential oil on yourself?

And I'd also welcome recs for perfumes with a patcholi presence but where the patchouli is smooth, gentle, not dirty.

A lot of people rate L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme very highly (it's been ages since I smelled it so I can't comment directly). Though it may depend how you feel about cocoa and anise.

https://akafkaesquelife.wordpress.com/2013/12/01/guerlain-linstant-de-guerlain-pour-homme-linstant-eau-extreme/

It has many versions but the EDP is still in production, I believe:

https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Guerlain/L-Instant-de-Guerlain-pour-Homme-EDP-44763.html

[kindkit]

Could be to do with how it's blended in with other notes (and what notes)

I wish I knew. There are other perfumes with patchouli where I get more of that kind of unwashed rankness that I don't like (and I know it's the perfume rather than the wearer because I'm trying them on me!). Mary Read has a lot of sweetness (from the rum and the ocean-whatever) as well as salt, and maybe those particular notes play off patchouli in a way that works for me. I know I'd find Mary Read too sweet if the patchouli wasn't in there.

L'Instant (especially the Extreme) sounds really interesting; adding it to my list of things to try when I next order some samples.

[rydra_wong]

Mary Read has a lot of sweetness (from the rum and the ocean-whatever) as well as salt, and maybe those particular notes play off patchouli in a way that works for me. I know I'd find Mary Read too sweet if the patchouli wasn't in there.

Makes sense; I can see how patchouli would cut through sweet notes and stop them from getting sickly (and conversely, the sweetness could help smooth out the patchouli so it doesn't go "unwashed hippies" on you).

[rydra_wong]

This is not a rec per se and would not fit the bill of what you're looking for, but Frederic Malle's Music For A While is a fascinatingly-broken scent which I enjoy greatly.

I have described it as original!Givenchy Gentleman wearing a Carmen Miranda pineapple hat. What if we took this uber-masculine patchouli and dumped tinned pineapple on it and then chucked in some lavender for good measure and watched them all fight it out?

https://www.fragrantica.com/perfume/Frederic-Malle/Music-For-a-While-47795.html

Immensely weird.

[kindkit]

That sounds deeply strange. I can sort of see patchouli and pineapple, as a kind of tropical theme, but then lavender??? And anise, and bergamot and mandarin. From the list of notes it's a hot mess, but from the reviews it sounds like the perfumer made it work, at least for some.

Almost certainly not my cup of pineapple juice, but I'm deeply curious about what it smells like.

[rydra_wong]

It is absolutely a hot mess, but if nothing else it's not boring.